By Eddi Ørpe, Head of Administration and Finance in DRC North Caucasus

How do you explain to people what it is like always to be escorted by at least 1 armed guard with a Kalashnikov? Actually I myself had never thought of it as a “bodyguard”, as one of my friends defines it, but yes, you can call it that. Wauw, I have my own bodyguard. Would of course prefer that I did not have to have that.

Expats as such are not thought to be the target of the many terrorist acts that you see in the North Caucasus, but the major risk is thought to be abductions for ransoms.

I returned to DRC North Caucasus in June 2008 – returned to my second period here. So, I knew what the living conditions would be like. During my first period from 2002 till August 2003 I did however never manage to go to Chechnya. Back then the operation was run from Nazran in neighbouring Ingushetia. When I left, I said to people that I would return when peace allowed me to go to Chechnya. Some of them reminded me of those words on my return! Maybe I did not really expect that I would actually return, but here I am and I am very happy that I came to Chechnya.

One of the very big surprises is actually that to see so little war damage in Groznyy – I sort of expected something like what I experienced in Bosnia even 7 years after the end of the war there.

Life in Groznyy - not the easiest living conditions, hardly any freedom of movement and very limited social activities. But not that bad either – we can even go to some approved restaurants for a dinner out. Of course the 7 expats have always had to coordinate activities. But restrictions have gradually been lifted and hopefully someday guards are not needed.

What is an ordinary day/week here?

• Being picked up by the car in the morning, at least by a driver and an armed guard. If more expats, we have an escort car also with one or more armed guards, depending on number of expats.
• After work maybe go to the small market or the supermarket. At the small market we have a very good selection of fruits, vegetables and all kinds of things. The guard follows us closely around. Or we go to the supermarket where we can even buy Danish Feta cheese. Here the guard stands at the entrance.We live in very good flats in 2 stair-cases close to the office – but we cannot walk the 10 minutes, nor can we walk the 50 meters from the flat to the garbage bin and back without a guard, who brings his Kalashnikov – well as weird as it sounds it becomes a habit.

Yes, somehow having a guard following you becomes everyday routine, it does not bother me –this is the way it is. Our guards are all very nice guys, and we have good relations. I appreciate their work and the fact that they are here for my sake, and sometimes have to endure long working hours under not very luxurious conditions.

As in all DRC programmes you do of course face a number of challenges also in DRC North Caucasus. One of the major challenges for expats in DRC North Caucasus is the fact that very many staff members speak no or very limited English.

Another daily challenge is the Russian bureaucracy, the unbelievable number of signatures on all kinds of documents. I sometimes joke that if I have no other lesson learned from my time here, at least I know how to sign.

But yes, of course I have days where the language barrier and the bureaucracy drive me crazy. My local colleagues smile when I complain that we use a rain forest every day! Sometimes I try to make shortcuts, which they immediately stop, thinking that I am definitely too casual.

Sometimes we simply have to laugh over our differences. A good sense of humour and a laugh often bridges the gap.

Cultural impressions
As I have experienced elsewhere, meeting our beneficiaries always leave huge impressions and memories with me. I recently went to see a family, where we had reconstructed the house, these 48 sqm, very basic, no kitchen and toilet (they still use the “outhouse”). 9 children from the age of 4 months till 16 years sat very quietly in the room and stared at these expats and at their exhausted mother who stood there crying. Crying of joy over the fact that now they at least had a house and crying over their extremely difficult living conditions. All these eyes looking at me, and it did not take a doctor to see that these kids very malnourished and under stimulated – well, it broke my heart. And seeing the “shed” where they had crammed in, well, I have no words! I have often experienced similar situations, but I keep finding it difficult to be only a professional. My private side wants to take action and do more for these people, but I have to keep my professional attitude.

As a Muslim country Chechnya is an interesting mixture of traditions and modern life. As an example, it is nice to see that we have quite many women working in DRC, also women with children. These brave women have to balance traditions with a career in a country, where house work is still mainly left with the women. Another thing which has surprised me is the “dress code” which does not allow pants (that expat women wear ….) but close-fitting T-shirts and skirts. Especially the young women are wearing very modern clothes.

But overall I enjoy working with human beings from another cultural background, people whose traditions are so different from the ones I bring with me. We are all human beings and in all my postings I have experienced that as human beings we can find “rooms” where we can meet and understand each other. If only we have an interest and a healthy sense of curiosity. It is good also for me to be challenged on some of my perspectives of life. I learn a lot from working abroad, and that part of the job I really enjoy and find extremely interesting. Why else endure being away from home and family?

Of course, I often experience that I am not able to understand things, traditions etc, but I do my best to accept, and hope that despite my lack of understanding I always show the respect that we all deserve. These cultural meeting have no doubt been the greatest benefit during my years in DRC.